The milliner and hat maker - Claudia Gams
Traditional craftsmanship is held in high esteem in the Salzkammergut. The milliner and hat maker Claudia Gams has revived an old tradition. In her studio in Ebensee, she makes hats for men and women, flower crowns and fascinators according to old craft traditions.
A look into the past: the history of hats
To fully appreciate the significance of Claudia Gams' craft, it is worth taking a look at the fascinating history of hats.
Hats were once worn primarily to protect people from the cold, sun and danger. In the Middle Ages, headgear also served to identify social classes: Aristocrats wore elaborately designed hats, while ordinary people favoured plain materials. In the 13th century, the first hat shops opened in France and Italy, which fuelled the development of hat fashion. Over time, the hat increasingly became a symbol of power and style. Particularly in the Renaissance and Baroque periods, hats were adorned with feathers, veils or precious stones to emphasise the wearer's influence and wealth. In this way, the hat developed from functional protection to a fashionable status symbol and is still an accessory with a long tradition today.
The artist behind the hats: Claudia Gams
Surrounded by this distinctive tradition, Claudia Gams has discovered her own individual path. She has been involved in a wide variety of handicraft techniques, crafts and design since she was a child and has dedicated many years to making monastic work and gold bonnets, which are very popular in Bavaria and in her home region, the Innviertel.
After 16 years as an apprentice, she decided to train as a milliner and has been self-employed since mid-2017.
An insight into the creative work process
The creative process that Claudia Gams follows when making her unique hats is just as impressive as the story behind each piece. The milliner's creations are designed by her and made according to traditional craftsmanship. As a milliner, all models are made entirely by hand; apart from steamers, irons and the occasional sewing machine, no machines are used. She attaches particular importance to the quality of the materials used. She uses hair/wool felt, cotton, silk, sinamay, parasisol, straw, feathers and much more.
Claudia Gams also offers customised products - the headgear is made entirely according to the customer's wishes and measurements. The colour and cut are chosen by the customer. The design is usually a joint process between Gams and her customers.
The complex hat manufacturing process
The stump of the hat is brushed with hat stiffener and dried in a complex process, then softened with steam so that it can be "pulled". Finally, when hot, it is stretched over wooden moulds and fixed in place. The individual selection of head and brim offers a multitude of variations and design options. In order to achieve the desired shape and surface permanently, the stretched felt is repeatedly treated with an ironing cloth and steam and brushed several times. After drying, the brim (the edge) and the head are finished. The hat is then decorated with feathers and ribbons. Finally, the dirt band on the inside of the hat is sewn in by hand. For men's hats, a lining and a leather band are usually added.
The art of selling: more than just an accessory
Making hats is one side of the coin, but selling them is the other. Finding the right model in the shortest possible time requires good empathy, taste and style as well as a good knowledge of human nature. It's not just about the hat matching the person's appearance; above all, a person's style and character must be reflected in their headgear.
"Then the wearer has the feeling that it is 'their' hat. It's often a little something that is too much for one person or too little for another to make them feel comfortable." Claudia Gams
Fashionistas: Haute couture for the head
While the milliner reproduces his hats over and over again and sometimes produces them by machine, the fashionistas' work is haute couture for the head. Each piece is unique and made entirely by hand. Homemade silk flowers, braids, ribbons and other decorations are used together with various feathers for the finishing touches.
An international success: London Craft Week 2024
The quality and uniqueness of her creations have also earned Claudia Gams international recognition, as her participation in London Craft Week 2024 impressively demonstrates.
At London Craft Week 2024, Claudia Gams represented the Salzkammergut region as part of the European Capital of Culture Bad Ischl Salzkammergut 2024. For Gams, it was an excellent opportunity to present her headwear outside the European Union for the first time and gain initial experience.
The traditional Austrian design elements were very well received:
In summary, I have recognised new perspectives and numerous opportunities have arisen to market my creations outside of Austria.
Where you can find Claudia Gams
You can find Claudia Gams at selected craft fairs, exhibitions and events in Austria, Germany and Great Britain. She also regularly presents her products at HAND.WERK.HAUS in Bad Goisern. Or directly in her studio in Ebensee, please make an appointment by telephone.
